Each owner of a private house at least once faced with troubles, the cause of which was an imperfect ventilation system. Agree, living in a house with a musty smell from moldy walls, or condensate streams on pipes and glasses is not very comfortable.
In order not to cause problems with the ventilation system, it is necessary even before the construction of the house to think over each stage of its installation, from the basement to the highest point above the roof. Some of the shortcomings can be eliminated in the already built building - for example, you can replace the air duct or install a deflector.
In this article, we will look at how to choose ventilation pipes for the roof and install it correctly, as well as give some tips on improving the protective functions and traction. We hope that our recommendations will be useful for solving problems with ventilation on our own.
General requirements for ventilation pipes
Ducts in the ventilation system occupy a significant part. Through these communications, the withdrawal of used air to the outside or, on the contrary, its supply to the premises is organized.
In a large multi-room cottage, it is recommended to install ventilation outlets in the kitchen, in the bathroom, toilet, basement, boiler room - in all places with a high level of humidity and the risk of gas or combustion products entering the air
The ventilation system is installed for years, therefore, special requirements are imposed on pipes and other elements, and the installation process is subject to the rules.
We will consider several important points regarding air ducts in the photo gallery:
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According to the characteristics of the material should be as durable as possible, resistant to various atmospheric manifestations - strong wind, rain, snow. These characteristics correspond to galvanized or stainless steel, brick, modern polymers, aluminum
Air ducts are mounted from pipes of round or rectangular cross-section, and in rare cases, different types are combined. Round pipes have advantages: smooth, without corners of the wall over the entire inner surface, less noise, easier cleaning
The dimensions of the elements are set by manufacturers, but many sizes, due to generally accepted standards, are common. For example, the diameter of the ducts can be 110, 150, 200 mm or more, the height of the roof pipes is 0.5 m, 1 m, 1.5 m
It is recommended to use pipes with a cross section of at least 150 mm - they easily withstand the load and provide air exchange in the right volume. The walls, on the contrary, should be thin - this increases the throughput and reduces the installation space
Given that roof ventilation pipes are outdoors, and even more so, at high altitude, they must have enhanced strength and ring stiffness - to withstand powerful wind gusts and large hail impacts
Moisture resistance is a necessary quality to prevent the formation of corrosion that may occur due to rain and condensation, and as a result destroy the entire duct. Polymeric products from this point of view are in a winning position. Fire resistance prevents the spread of fire
The lower the weight of the pipes and fittings, the lower the load on the roof or on the duct going from below. Lightweight pipes are easier to transport, assemble and connect, so many people prefer plastic products. Galvanized pipes are heavier, but the largest weight is in brick
Installing air ducts in the attic and roof pipes is much easier if they belong to the elements of one set or are at least made of the same material and have the same diameter
Material for the manufacture of ventilation pipes
Pipe shape and its effect on productivity
Sizes of elements for duct assembly
Strength and stiffness characteristics
Moisture resistance and fire resistance
Light weight communications
Possibility of quick and easy installation
If you decide to arrange the outlet of the ventilation pipe on the roof yourself, then we recommend two options: galvanized steel or plastic. Both options are presented in the market of ventilation equipment in large numbers, from standard half-meter products to pipes of increased length.
For self-production, sheets of thin galvanized steel are usually used, which is easy to process with improvised tools. It is suitable for installation on the roof according to its characteristics, while creating a pipe, adapter and "fungus" is inexpensive.
Installation instructions for roof ventilation
The functionality of the hood itself and the condition of the attic depend on how you make the vent pipe to the roof. We recommend purchasing advance elements intended for a specific material - flexible or metal tiles, profiled sheets, slate.
We will consider how best to perform installation on the roof of ventilation pipes so that the system works with maximum performance.
Stage # 1 - preparation of materials and tools
If you are going to work on the roof yourself, be sure to take care of comfortable clothes, gloves and shoes, pick up stairs for lifting and moving along the roof, and also prepare a safety rope for your own safety.
Tools and materials for installation are better to raise in advance in order not to spend extra time and effort on constant descents
You will need:
- ventilation tube;
- a factory or home-made passage assembly;
- thermal insulation material;
- sealants and sealant;
- hammer drill or drill;
- jigsaw;
- Screwdriver Set;
- scissors for metal;
- marker for marking;
- self-tapping sludge anchors.
The passage unit is selected taking into account the type and inclination of the roof.
There is a large selection of ready-made units for standard diameter pipes on sale - we recommend using them.
For self-production, keep in mind that the main qualities of the transition block are tightness and reliability. The unit should strengthen the position of the pipe on the roof, and also create an obstacle for moisture to penetrate under the roofing material
For stronger fixation of metal products, anchor fasteners are used, but plastic ones can be mounted on self-tapping screws.
Stage # 2 - selection of the ventilation outlet
The place where the pipes exit is thought out, making up the project for the house. But sometimes you have to lay additional channels and act when the arrangement of the roof is completed.
When choosing an exit point, they are guided by the documentation of SNiP 41-01-2003, SP 7.13130.2009, and when choosing the height of the pipes for sewage, they are guided by the recommendations of SNiP No. 2.04.01.
Scheme of installation of ventilation pipes on the roof. The main determining factors are the distance of the pipe to the ridge of the roof, the angle of the roof
It is believed that on a flat roof, the height of the pipe should be at least 0.5 m, and on a pitched roof it should be placed at a distance of up to 1.5 from the ridge, while it should also protrude about 0.5 m above the ridge.
If chimneys are located nearby, then the hood is placed at the same level relative to the ridge, but it should be slightly below the chimney.
If the roof has a complex configuration and dormers are located on it, then the place to install ventilation is much more difficult to find.We’ll have to look for a section where the air flows are stable, have the same speed of movement
If the location is not selected correctly, noise or humming from air moving jerkily may appear in the duct. Have to install resonators or additional risers.
Stage # 3 - opening a hole in the roof
Having chosen the place of installation of the pipe, it is necessary to make a hole for the passage element. If the product is factory-made, then it is completed with a special template: it should be attached to the roofing and circled with a marker. When attaching a homemade product, you need to focus on the dimensions of the lower part of the assembly.
Then remove the layers of the roofing "cake", starting from the top. The most difficult thing is to work with a metal coating.
To make a hole in the metal tile, you must first drill a few holes along the indicated contour, then use scissors for metal and cut out the selected fragment
An inaccurate cut should be leveled with pliers - the edge should be smooth, without bends and deformations.
Under the roofing is the crate. If the boards are 100 mm, then there is a chance that the pipe will fit between them. But if the boards are wider, for example, 150-200 mm or installed at narrow intervals, then for the installation of the pipe it will be necessary to cut fragments. An unnecessary section of the board is cut with an electric jigsaw or gradually drilled with a screwdriver.
If the crate does not interfere, at this stage you can try on the passage element - insert it into the resulting hole. It is of the type of sleeve, so the edges should be closely adjacent to the roofing, and the flange should be pressed tightly to the tile
Under the crate is a waterproofing layer. Along with the factory-made junction units, hydraulic locks are included in the kit, designed just for installation on the membrane. They protect both waterproofing and insulation from water leakage from the roof.
We proceed in order:
- Put a water seal on the membrane.
- Marker circle it around the inner contour.
- Cut a hole in the membrane along the contour.
- Apply sealant to the water seal.
- We install a water lock in the hole, piercing the surrounding membrane with pins-holders.
- We fasten the device with screws to the boards of the crate. To do this, it is equipped with special "ears".
Seals and other elements may be included with transition nodes — they must be installed according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Stage # 4 - installation of the transition unit and pipe
First, set the pass-through element. To do this, apply it to the hole, find the correct position and mark the border with a marker.
Then along the edge of the hole and on the flange grooves we apply a sealant, we press the passage unit to the roofing and fix it with screws. We recommend first fixing two side screws - at the extreme points, and then all the rest. Try to ensure that part of the screws goes into not only the tile, but also into the crate - so the fastening will be much stronger.
One of the options for installing a protective transition element. Installation is carried out after fixing the ventilation pipe to the sealant and screws
If, after fixing on the self-tapping screws, a sealant protrudes along the edges of the flange, this is not scary - so the junction will be even more tight.
When the sealant hardens, you can put the pipe. For factory products, there is a pipe inside that matches the diameter of the duct. It is simply inserted inside the passage unit, while the outside remains the expanded sealed part.
The pipe is put on self-tapping screws with roof washers, choosing the most convenient position inside the assembly. It should be strictly directed upward, perpendicular to the surface of the earth, regardless of the angle of inclination of the roof, so when installing, use the level
On the inside, from the attic or attic, let down the duct.It is either joined directly with the roof pipe, or connected via a transition flexible element, if the pipes are not located on one axis.
How to protect the ventilation duct?
It is easy to see that the ventilation pipes rising above the roof differ in their design. The fact is that some of them are not equipped with either a “fungus” or a deflector. These are pipes for sewerage service.
The air in the sewer pipes is always warm, so any elements installed on top will be covered with ice in the winter, as a result of which the pipe will simply stop working
Fan pipes for sewers look “more modest” than other similar elements on the roof. They end either with a threaded head, if these are universal products, or simply with a truncated end
But other ventilation ducts require protection. To do this, a device is attached to the upper part to prevent the entry of street debris into the channel: dry leaves, branches, dust, sand. The protective element bears various names - “fungus”, cap, weather-vane, cover, “umbrella”.
For beautiful cottages with expensive finishes, appropriate caps are also ordered - forged, decoratively decorated, exclusive, combined with the railing of terraces and stairs
If you yourself want to make a "fungus" - it is not difficult. You will find video assembly instructions at the end of the article.
How to increase traction in the duct?
Air duct performance can be increased with a deflector, which is also mounted on the pipe and at the same time is a protective element.
For factory products, the deflector is a nozzle that is larger in diameter than the pipe. It is screwed onto the upper edge of the thread
The principle of operation of the deflector is built depending on the strength of the wind. The built-in diffuser cuts the air flow and creates a low pressure area, which increases traction inside the duct. It is estimated that installing a deflector increases ventilation efficiency by 30%.
Modern devices have a decorative appearance and do not spoil the overall appearance of the roof after installation. You can install the deflector yourself.
Installation of pipe on corrugated board:
Detailed video instructions for the manufacture of the "umbrella":
Practical experience in installing a ventilation pipe on the roof of Ondulin:
The ventilation pipe on the roof is the same necessary element of home improvement as a chimney. Its functionality is completely dependent on proper installation. When installing, try to adhere to the requirements of SNiP, the manufacturer's instructions and safety rules.
If you correctly fix the transitional unit and install the pipe, the tightness of the roof will not suffer, and the ventilation system will work properly and create a favorable microclimate in the house.
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